He asked if we expected something different and added, “me too,” after we responded affirmatively. Our waiter delivered a bowl of 20 cherry tomatoes in a pool of balsamic vinaigrette with dried basil sprinkled on top. From just three appetizers, we chose a tomato salad for two ($8). The dinner/lunch menu was a light version of other Lacona family restaurants. A Sunday buffet menu adds scrambled eggs, fruit, banana bread and lemon bread. A sausage, egg and cheese muffin, plus Danish, doughnuts and cinnamon rolls completed that menu. The main item was called “the holy one” and consisted of sausage, egg and American cheese melted on a glazed doughnut. was the earliest it ever opens.Īt any hour, breakfast offerings were brief. ![]() The menu boasted “open for breakfast, lunch and dinner” but also stated that 11 a.m. A large rack of chips sat in front of an open kitchen which revealed no pizza dough being tossed. ![]() A row of booths was separated from a row of banquettes by a huge empty space. Linen tablecloths were complemented by thin paper napkin dispensers with advertising on their sides. The women’s bathroom included a changing table that doubled as a giant table saw, complete with a large generator. Hosts greeted guests at the door and immediately handed them menus, a la lunch rush at a self serve. One enters facing a wall built into a bookcase/office. On my last visit, curbside delivery was offered to people who call ahead and a construction truck was parked out front with a hand-painted sign in its trailer. Lacona said his landlord won’t let him use the drive-through and that he’s also forbidden to erect a sign on the building. Nothing is quite as it seems at this place, though. It’s housed in a building built for a Bruegger’s, with a drive-through lane and set on a busy rush hour corridor that appears to be a sensible convenience for commuters wanting to pick up a pizza for dinner or a slice for lunch. This is his first effort at operating a restaurant in central Iowa after a successful career in construction. ![]() Papa Lacona’s, which opened last month, is the latest, and the quirkiest, contribution to the family legacy.Ĭhuck Lacona is a personable fellow whose younger brother runs Mama Lacona’s and whose sister owns Bambino’s. Lucca, Gusto and Hot Shots are gifts from the fourth generation. Her sons founded Noah’s Ark and Mama Lacona’s. No family has contributed more to the central Iowa food scene than Teresa Lacona’s. Spaghetti pizza includes no pie crust at Papa Lacona’s, 860 First St., West Des Moines, 822-9022, open daily from 11 a.m.
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